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devil
Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 16
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 Posted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 4:13 am Post subject: what kind of 'training' do you guys do? |
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iv read that the best and only really effective form of training for climbing is actual climbing. strength training the grip, doing chin ups and keeping lean are all good but they all take second place to some sort of climbing.
what do you guys think? how much training do you guys do to improve your climbing that doesn't involve just climbing? |
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Max
Joined: 19 Jan 2008
Posts: 8
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| Posted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 4:24 am Post subject: |
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I have a training board, but really I only use it when I can't go to the gym and I have too much energy.
Otherwise, I climb!
Max. |
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RckStarNot
Site Admin
Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Posts: 78
Location: Ottawa
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| Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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One thing that people seem to neglect but can be thrown in there along with the climbing when you first start is flexability and core tension. Stretching for hip turn-out, high stepping, and the splits can all help improve climbing abilities and even helps as a warm-up/injury prevention strategy.
I still agree that climbing is the best training up until you hit a "plateau", then you can start doing something specialized. This is just my own personal opinion and is subject to debate but I find that people often seek out hangboard or campus board training too early trying to find some magic formula to get super-strong. I don't disagree that a hang/campus board can make you stronger, but if you injure your fingers it's hardly worth it (and I'm speaking from personal experience here  ). Bottom line - don't try to take on highly specialized training excercises too early, and when you do make sure to warm up a lot and stay hydrated.
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dagibbs
Joined: 07 Apr 2008
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Climb. I would say, especially, climb with someone who is better than you when you get the chance, and watch how they do things. And, ask their advice on how to do things. |
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RckStarNot
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Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Posts: 78
Location: Ottawa
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| Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:28 am Post subject: |
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Agreed. If you are climbing to improve the best way to break into a new grade is to work on something a couple of grades harder. A 5.9 will feel like a walk in the park after you get your butt kicked by a few 5.11s.
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Mitch
Joined: 13 Jun 2008
Posts: 6
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| Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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first, know your weakness... sounds dumb but its the hardest part of training...
If you want to practice technique I would recommend bouldering... hey its better to practice when your 2 feet off the ground then 20 meters... and that crazy guy from Coyotes makes some good problems to practice all sorts of types (pinch, dyno's and etc...)
If your missing endurance... well you have routes... which is great to build that endurance up
if its certain types of grips you have difficult with... create a bouldering problem with that type.... and play with the feet... put crappy feets see how you hold on it...
actualy, I need to practice my foot work... which from what I can tell is a pretty big part of climbing...
and dont push yourself to hard... you could do some serious damage to your tendons if you do... |
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